Apple Hill

Apple Hill is not a town. It is a group of farms, orchards, bakeries and wineries spread across the hills around Camino, just east of Placerville, that market themselves together for the autumn harvest. Apples, cider donuts, pies, pumpkins, u-pick rows and a great deal of queueing.

From Arnold it is about two hours north, up through the Gold Country on Highway 49 and across to Highway 50. That makes it a comfortable day trip in October, if you accept from the start that the roads will be busy.

The main run is September through October, peaking on October weekends when the whole Sacramento region drives up. That is when the pumpkins, the pies and the fairground atmosphere are at their best and when the lanes between farms back up for miles.

Weekdays are transformed — same orchards, a tenth of the cars. Summer brings cherries, berries and peaches at some ranches, and a handful of places stay open year-round for cider and baked goods. Which farms are open, and for what, changes weekly through the season; the growers' association publishes a current list.

Pick two or three farms rather than trying to see everything. Arrive early — before ten on a weekend — and work outward from the far end so you are driving against the flow. Bring cash for small stands, a cooler for the car, and layers, because the mornings up here are cold and the afternoons are not.

The nicest version of the day is small: one orchard for picking, one bakery for a pie and a donut, one winery or cider house for an hour on a terrace, then Placerville for dinner on the way home.